The city’s top 30 dining deals for budget gourmands

ILLUSTRATION: DAVID PINHO

With slurp-worthy noodles on every corner, top-notch international chefs, and late-night dining aplenty, Phnom Penh is a city for foodies – you just have to know where to look. Whether you’re an adventurous diner, a fried-food fanatic, or a pauper with expensive tastes, we’ve got 30 of the city’s best dishes for your budget.

The beef rendang at Warung Bali comes with a coconut curry paste. Scott Howes

$5 and under

Beef Rendang at Warung Bali
Cheery staff serve up fine Indonesian staples like gado gado, fried chilli squid, nasi goreng and satay chicken skewers, but it’s the beef rendang that has us returning time and time again. Melt-in-your-mouth chunks of beef are slow cooked with a nutty, coconut infused curry paste with just the right amount of chilli. At only $3.50, it comes with a big plate of rice and is best washed down with a sweet, icy tamarind juice ($1.50). #25E St 178, Riverside area. 10am-9pm

Great value Japanese

The Japanese restaurant’s dishes are generous, delicious and affordable. Photograph supplied

Japanese cuisine is great on the palate, if not the wallet. In the past month I have twice excused myself from Japanese restaurants after I sat down and saw the prices. In one awkward case, my party of six had already dirtied the wet washcloths that were so neatly wrapped for us.

Momo izakaya, however, provides a much needed exception to Phnom Penh’s otherwise pricey Japanese food scene. On Street 23 near the corner of 172, Momo is cheap and delicious, with no single entree costing more than $6.50. Portions are as generous as they are delicious, with a soup, salad and entree typically costing less than $5 altogether.

The tamagotoji egg udon noodle soup ($4.99) is a favourite of mine, with wholesome udon noodles and a graceful broth that resembles dashi. The karaage fried chicken don ($3.50), with its lightly deep-fried meat similar to tempura, also has an elegant taste and feel. In contrast, the Katsu curry ($3.80) is reminiscent of a hearty English beef stew with a bit more spice than usual.

In case anyone thinks the menu sounds a tad Western, rest assured that chicken gizzard ($1.60) and grilled salmon head ($4.50) are also offered.

All you can eat . . . and it’s under one huge roof

There is much more than just shopping at Phnom Penh’s newest mall. Chelsea Chapman andWill Jackson went to AEON Mall to sample some of the various culinary delights on offer.

MIAM MIAM Dining at Miam Miam is certainly a cultural experience. Which culture? Seems like most of them. Miam Miam started out as a Singaporean chain serving food inspired by French-influenced restaurants and cafes in Japan and now the AEON Mall restaurant is their first in Cambodia. To give you a bit of an idea what they’re about, according to the menu their “all time favourite” dish is their Miam Miam Spaghetti ($8.90) which features frankfurters, tomatoes, bacon, mushrooms, spinach and tomatoes tossed in French butter as well as a “secret broth” and soy sauce, crowned with a soft-poached egg. Other dishes include squid ink rice and teriyaki chicken baguettes. Miam Miam, second floor, AEON Mall

KAIHOMARU SUSHI Kaihomaru Sushi’s all you can eat buffet (lunch $12, dinner $16) gives you 80 minutes to pack in as much sushi and assorted Japanese cuisine as you can. The sushi selection includes all the usual suspects – tuna, salmon, seafood – plus a few more unusual options like tamagoyaki, sweetened egg layered upon egg on top of seaweed and rice. There’s also a selection of warm food including chawan mushi – a delicious savoury custard dish served with pork and water lily in a tea cup – Japanese-style stir fry, a variety of salads and a muffin or two to finish off. Go on an empty stomach to make sure you get your money’s worth. Kaihomaru Sushi, third flood, AEON Mall

Think inside the box: where to get your bento

Japan’s answer to the lunchbox, these super compartmentalised meals are best made by creative-minded mothers who mould the rice into the shape of anime characters or animals. These are less homey, but make a neat meal nonetheless

Himajin The food is almost as good as the eavesdropping at dark and cosy Himajin, where the – mostly Japanese – patrons sit in wooden alcoves, snacking and smoking over gossipy business meetings. The lunch set ($5) changes daily and consists of a main (anything from fried chicken to salmon sashimi) usually served with fresh tofu and ginger, hearty miso soup, rice and pickled vegetables. Or else you can order to your liking. The grilled mackerel ($7) is crisp and succulent, as is the salmon ($8). Himajin is a little pricier than some other options, but the conspiratorial setting and novelty toothpick holders do a lot to justify the expense. #131 Street 200. Tel: 023 214 641. 11:30am until 2pm; 5:30pm until 10pm.

Ichiban’s red and black lacquer bento boxes are an energy-packed option for fast dining, thanks to the inclusion of the kitchen’s special mashed potato and carrot side dish alongside the rice, salmon sashimi, miso soup and meat dish that traditionally constitute the meal. Bento boxes are normally a takeaway lunch option, and Ichiban’s slightly out of the way location means that footfall is relatively low. However, the excellent sake menu – which they claim is Phnom Penh’s most extensive – makes this an equally appealing option for diners who’ve got the luxury of eating in and taking a post-lunch siesta. A hint for bargain hunters: the Pork Ginger Box may be flavoursome but its content is largely bulked up by onions; the Tonkatsu Pork is just as tasty, and seems to contain twice the amount of meat. Tempura bento $7.50, all other bento boxes $6.50. #54 Street 454. Tel: 077 250 550. 11am until 10pm.

MY PHNOM PENH: Masahiro Hara, aka The Potato: Blogger

Masahiro Hara moved to Cambodia four years ago as a massage therapist. He soon created a Japanese-language blog called The Potato – so named, he says, “because my massage therapy teacher said my face looks like a potato”. It gets 500 views a day, and is a go-to resource for the thousand-odd Japanese expats in the Kingdom. This week, ‘The Potato’ sat down with Alessandro Marazzi Sassoon to share the places that he and his readers most enjoy.

Japanese noodle shops

The first time I went to Shangri-La was in 2013 when I first visited Phnom Penh. At that time, there were only a few noodle shops, and I’d read about this one on Facebook. In Siem Reap at the time, there were no ramen joints, and I found this place to be very delicious, like real Japanese ramen noodle. I still go there sometimes, and it’s good not only for ramen but also for many other foods. Also, the atmosphere is very nice. And it’s open late, so if you work late, it’s good to go to – unless the soup runs out. Now, for Chiyoda, it’s very nice, unbelievable. I like soba, and in Cambodia I had never eaten this kind of noodle before. This chef [Nobu] had a restaurant near Golden Soriya Mall but it closed. I like the shrimp tempura there because they use the big shrimp. Cambodians also like shrimp, but it’s the small variety.

Kizuna Street (St 63, south of Mao Tse Tung Boulevard)

How being alone may be the key to rest

• m the sect

Image copyrightTHINKSTOCK

In today's Magazine

• Did Donald Trump use the word ‘bigly’?
• The scavengers making a fortune from other people's rubbish
• 'Inappropriate' Thai tourism video cut

How much rest do we think we need, who is getting the most, and what are the most restful activities? The results of the world's largest survey on rest indicate that to feel truly rested, a lot of us want to be alone, reports Claudia Hammond.

Last November an online survey called The Rest Test was launched to investigate what rest means to different people, how they like to rest and whether there is a link between rest and well-being. The results are now in and the analysis has begun.

Rest sounds easy to define, but turns out to be far from straightforward. Does it refer to a rested mind or a rested body? Actually, it depends. For some, the mind can't rest unless the body is at rest. For others it is the opposite. It is the tiring out of the body through vigorous exercise that allows the mind to rest - 16% of people said they find exercise restful.

Altogether, 18,000 people from 134 countries made time to take part in what was quite a lengthy survey devised by Hubbub - an international group of academics, artists, poets, and mental health experts - showing perhaps what a pressing issue rest is in the modern world.

17 Short Stories That Will Scare The Pants Off You In No Time

Halloween snacks you can finish during your lunch break — as long as you keep those pants on.

PAUL GILLIGAN VIA GETTY IMAGES

The air is growing crisp, jack-o’-lanterns appearing on doorsteps, huge bags of candy stockpiled in cupboards: Yes, it’s nearly Halloween. Maybe all you want to do is watch scary movies and work on your show-stopping costume, yet you’re stuck at work or school, just like every other week.

Of course, you can get your rush of fright while sitting right at your desk. These stories are short enough to read over your lunch break; many of them are available for free online. (And trust us, they’re all worth paying for.) Most importantly, they’re all guaranteed to send you back to work with a delicious shiver down your spine:

“The Grownup” by Gillian Flynn

‘Goodnight, You Beautiful Women’ By Anna Noyes

Noyes’ characters grope around in the dark for meaning in their rural hometowns.

GROVE ATLANTIC

Energized by the stillness of domesticity, a man begins to throw his belongings into the quarry behind his home: knives and fragile china, cast away and sinking. When his wife wakes up to find a dusty absence where their refrigerator once was, she knows to worry. Soon after, he throws himself into the quarry, too. 

It’s an odd scene that could be thought of as parabolic, until in breaches into cloudy, incomprehensible territory. Like the man’s grieving wife, we’re left in a haze of earthy images.

“Hibernation,” the first story in Anna Noyes’ biting collection Goodnight, Beautiful Women isn’t about the man’s illness, but his wife’s response to it. She works to make sense of his erratic behavior and to accept that he’s gone for good; she struggles to comprehend her own fritz of feelings, hollowness tinged with guilt-ridden relief. 

Celebrate Short Story Month With These 17 Stellar Short Stories By Contemporary Writers

You can read ‘em all on the Internet, folks.

GEORGE MARKS VIA GETTY IMAGES

We’re now in the throes of Short Story Month, a gleeful celebration of fiction writing with a word limit. Short stories are typically classified as any work amounting to fewer than 7,500 words, but of course, there’s much more to the form than that.

Working within a smaller frame, writers mustn’t meander; short stories often rely on economical descriptions of settings, spare dialogue exchanged between characters, and single scenes rather than years-long plots, although the latter isn’t entirely unheard of, either.

Cambodia in brief: September 28, 2016

Deal terms floated as CPP, CNRP set to meet at National Assembly

With Cambodia National Rescue Party lawmakers due to meet their ruling party counterparts this morning at the National Assembly, talk of a deal to resolve the Kingdom’s political stalemate hangs in the air, though it remains to be seen what, if any, compromises will be made.

Ministry's code of conduct for artists closer to reality

A long-in-the-works “code of conduct” for Cambodia’s artists and performers moved a step closer to reality yesterday, a fact that has prompted concerns of censorship from some in the artistic community.

Minimum wage vote looms for key sector

The government’s wage-setting body, the Labour Advisory Council (LAC), will Thursday afternoon discuss – and quite possibly rule on – a wage proposal emerging from today’s final tripartite meeting of garment industry stakeholders.

Innovation for a fruitful harvest

The integration of technology into Cambodia’s agricultural sector is vital to increase the competitiveness and overall performance of the Kingdom’s harvest, but efforts to push for widespread adoption of innovative solutions has been slow to take off, industry experts and stakeholders said at a forum in Phnom Penh yesterday.

China MoU to help ‘reform’ judiciary

China has signed an agreement to assist the Kingdom with judicial reforms and to share expertise in overhauling such systems, though one international expert yesterday cautioned that China shouldn’t be considered “a model for justice reform in Cambodia”.

Gov’t slams UN sand figures

Government officials have denied the sand-dredging industry is mired in corruption in the wake of damning figures pointing to a 70-million-tonne hole in Cambodian sand-export numbers to Singapore.

Cambodia's economy on growth path: ADB

Despite uncertainty over the global economy, which has been stymied by a continued weak recovery in many developed economies, Cambodia will continue on its projected growth rate for the rest of this year and into 2017, buoyed by sustained growth from China and India, the Asian Development Bank (ABD) said yesterday in a reiteration of its previous growth forecast.

Four-year-old fraud case back in municipal court

The trial of Cambodian-American businessman San Richer and three others accused of defrauding a local businesswoman out of a $1 million investment in 2012 resumed yesterday at the Phnom Penh Municipal Court.

Women ‘bear brunt’ of land grabs

Cambodia’s rampant land grabs have had a devastating impact on the psychological health of women and have led to a sharp increase in the rates of domestic violence they suffer, according to a new report.

Man shot in throat, left to die in Siem Reap

An unidentified man in his twenties was shot dead yesterday morning in Siem Reap town’s Ampil commune, according to local authorities.

Unrepentant ABC boss to be called for meeting

Outspoken Radio ABC owner “Aja A” has announced he will not apologise to journalists – whom his media outlet branded as thieves and extortionists – after the Ministry of Information announced it would call him to meet with the aggrieved reporters.

NEC denies request for time off for workers

The National Election Committee (NEC) has thrown cold water on a request by the Cambodian Labour Confederation (CLC) that it permit garment workers extra time off to register in their home provinces without receiving a pay cut, according to a letter posted on the NEC’s Facebook page yesterday.

Sleepy driver blamed for watery crash

At least one person was killed and two more seriously injured after a speeding truck overturned and plunged into a pond in Kampong Thom province’s Santuk district on Monday afternoon, an accident an official attributed to a “sleepy” driver, who fled the scene.

Japan gives $32M for UXO projects, Phnom Penh buses

Japan has pledged to help fund three projects in Cambodia with a grant totalling about $31.9 million.

Sustainable energy options for Cambodia discussed

Representatives from the Konrad Adenauer Foundation, the Ministry of Environment and a handful of climate advocates met in Phnom Penh yesterday to brainstorm ways the country can transition to a “sustainable energy future”.

‘Illegal loggers’ snared on Thai side of border

Twenty-six Cambodians were arrested by Thai authorities for allegedly illegally logging rosewood in Pang Sida National Park in Thailand’s Sa Kaeo province on Sunday.

Locals keep up protest for jailed woman

Villagers from Preah Sihanouk province yesterday again protested the ongoing imprisonment of a local woman arrested for illegal forest clearing, claiming local authorities often allow illegal logging and are using her as a scapegoat.

Life insurer targets low-income workers

An obscure NGO is providing life insurance coverage to low-income individuals, mostly garment workers, offering a financial safety net for the families of its policyholders, but triggering the concern of insurance regulators who take issue to its unlicensed operations.

Cambodia will chair LDC bureau at WTO

Cambodia has been selected to chair the Global Coordination Bureau of the Least Developed Countries (LDCs) next year, state-owned media outlet AKP reported yesterday.

Discarded SIMs lead to decrease in users

The number of active SIM card users in Cambodia has decreased to 19.2 million from a late-2015 high of 21 million, Moa Chakyra, director-general of the Ministry of Posts and Telecommunication, was quoted as saying in state-owned media outlet AKP yesterday.

Bank trims rate to coax millers

The state-owned bank entrusted with extending $27 million in emergency loans to millers to purchase rice paddy has marginally lowered the interest rate on these conditional loans in an effort to shorten some of the strings attached.

Artist Chhan Dina is helping Cambodia’s art scene flourish

Chhan Dina’s sculptures and abstract paintings have been exhibited around the world and she’s blazing a trail for Cambodia’s artists, particularly women. She was recently named as one of four Cambodian artists to join this year’s Cambodian Living Arts Fellows Programme, which aims to nurture talent and leadership in the Kingdom’s arts community

How would you describe yourself to someone who doesn’t know you?

I am Khmer sculptor and painter. Hopefully you’ll recognise my unique artwork from various exhibitions around Southeast Asia and further afield. I eat, sleep and breath art.

You spent some of your early childhood in a refugee camp on the Thai border. Can you tell us about your early life and what led you on the path to becoming an artist?

Although I was born in Phnom Penh, my family was forced out of the capital to a refugee camp in Poipet. Life for everybody in Poipet was constantly risky, largely due to vast amount of land mines scattered around the province. I remember walking to school on tiny tracks between fields that were littered with warning signs about buried explosives. We would frequently hear explosions. Children, farmers, cows, dogs would perish by accidentally straying into a restricted area. Luckily when I was nine my family returned to Phnom Penh. I met Mr Ron, an American artist that lived nearby. He saw me playing with dirt and modelling figures from clay. He shared sculpting techniques with me and taught me how to sketch. He encouraged me a lot.

Cambodia in brief: September 27, 2016

Army’s intro to riot control

Raised riot shields in their left hands, batons ready in their right, the line of several dozen soldiers advanced toward the crowd of “protesters” who, armed with sticks and placards, lunged forward now and then to strike out at the shields.

Dredging figures do not add up

Transparency and environmental groups are calling on the Anti-Corruption Unit to investigate potential smuggling in the sand-dredging industry after a gaping $750 million discrepancy was discovered between Cambodia’s documented sand exports and Singapore’s imports.

Int’l pressure ‘key to pardon’

Self-exiled opposition leader Sam Rainsy told a British television show he hopes the international community will pressure Prime Minister Hun Sen to grant him a royal pardon, while allowing he was “considering” coming back to Cambodia even without a deal.

Bank trims rate to coax millers

The state-owned bank entrusted with extending $27 million in emergency loans to millers to purchase rice paddy has marginally lowered the interest rate on these conditional loans in an effort to shorten some of the strings attached.

Activists call for info on dam

A group of environmental activists petitioned the government yesterday to release information about the potential impact of the proposed 2,600-megawatt Sambor dam on the Mekong River in Kratie province, which they say could displace thousands and destroy ecosystems.

Journos demand apology

A group representing more than 20 media organisations yesterday appealed for the government to intervene after commentators on Radio ABC Cambodia described journalists as “thieves”.

New mining licences issued, others revoked

Over 40 new mining licences were issued during the first half of the year to satisfy the high demand for construction materials by Cambodian infrastructure and real estate projects, while more than 100 licences were revoked due to environmental concerns or inactivity, a government official said yesterday.

Second tripartite wage meet sees no progress

The Labour Ministry will hold another tripartite meeting for wage negotiations on Wednesday after yesterday’s meeting produced no results, as both employers and unions held firm on their demands.

Cambodian fishermen arrested in Thai waters

Koh Kong provincial authorities intervened yesterday to seek the repatriation of 50 Cambodian citizens who were arrested while fishing illegally in Thai territory on Sunday morning, a Mondul Seima district official confirmed.

Police chief accused of corruption in Kep

About 100 police officers in Kep have thumbprinted a letter calling for the dismissal of the province’s police chief, Ing Som Ol, whom they accuse of nepotism, bribery and poor management skills.

Queen Mother donates $500 to Ley’s widow

Queen Mother Norodom Monineath has donated $500 to the family of slain political analyst Kem Ley for the Pchum Ben holiday, a member of the royal family confirmed yesterday.

Pagoda chief called in lawsuit

The head monk at Samaki Rainsy pagoda – long known for hosting activists and land disputants – has asked the Phnom Penh Municipal Court to postpone a summons he received relating to a defamation case, with court officials giving no details of the complaint.

Chinese ‘kidnapping’ trial unfolds

Six Chinese nationals allegedly involved in the kidnapping and illegal confinement of three of their countrymen in the capital in December yesterday denied having any knowledge of the case in a hearing at Phnom Penh Municipal Court.

PM agains calls for ‘action’ on logging

Prime Minister Hun Sen has appealed to ministry officials and local authorities to strengthen the protection of natural resources following a series of high-profile illegal logging busts that resulted in no arrests.

Two farmers accused in CNRP activist’s murder

Two men have been arrested in connection with last week’s murder of a Tbong Khmum province activist for the opposition Cambodia National Rescue Party, a killing believed to have been sparked by “individual revenge”, police said yesterday.

Ministry eyeing tree planting experiment

In what is being touted as an experimental attempt to go green, the Ministry of Environment yesterday signed a memorandum of understanding with two Chinese companies to plant Paulownia trees in Cambodia.

Defrocking calls Sonando suit against monk proceeds

Outspoken radio host and aspiring politician Mam Sonando called on activist monk But Buntenh to defrock yesterday. The remarks followed Sonando’s appearance at the Phnom Penh Municipal Court where he answered questions related to his defamation lawsuit against the monk.

China urged to speed up $300M rice loan

A Cambodian government official urged China’s new ambassador to the Kingdom yesterday to speed up a $300 million loan aimed at building rice storage facilities across the country, a nearly two-year-old request that has seen little traction as Cambodia’s rice sector continues to struggle, state-owned media outlet AKP reported.

Central bank to replace old, torn riel banknotes

The National Bank of Cambodia (NBC) launched its “Loving Riel Banknotes” campaign yesterday, in which it will allow people to exchange their old or torn riel banknotes for crisp new notes of the same value at NBC branches nationwide.

Air link could give Indonesian trade more lift

A three-day trade and tourism conference aimed at promoting Indonesian-made products in Phnom Penh ended yesterday and although the conference is hoped to boost bilateral trade, an Indonesian diplomat said direct flights would be needed to facilitate the flow of business between the two countries. 

Women’s Work

At a bustling construction site in the heart of Phnom Penh, the women stand apart, separated from their male co-workers by more than just their brightly-colored, mismatched clothes that jump out against the concrete-gray surroundings.

As they shovel sand and rocks into bags, men wield power tools. As they sweep the job site, men paint walls, set plumbing pipes and wind electrical wires through the luxury apartment project that’s climbing above the trees on the corner of streets 228 and 55 in Daun Penh district.

Heng Chamreoun fills a bag with rocks for her male co-worker at a construction site on the corner of streets 228 and 55 in Phnom Penh’s Daun Penh district last week. (Hannah Hawkins/The Cambodia Daily)

The women, decked out in matching yellow safety vests and hardhats, prepare building materials for men, take orders from men and are paid by men.

Ways of a Dictator

In Cambodia, corruption has the characteristic of being democratic: It spreads from the front-desk clerk to the department head. One ends up paying just to get one’s right to it,” writes researcher Julien Cheverny.

“When trading influence goes together with the power to sell, it’s corruption that makes it possible to set the actual hierarchy in public administration jobs,” he writes. “Naked greed involves little risk and leaves no unfortunate accounting evidence. Favors come from above, gifts from below.”

Prince Norodom Sihanouk greets supporters at a publicity event for a film in the 1960s.

This analysis, apt in describing the ruling CPP’s deep-rooted patronage network, appeared 45 years ago in Mr. Cheverny’s 1971 book, “Eloge du colonialisme, or “In Praise of Colonialism,” as he traced corruption and influence peddling in the country during the 1960s, when Prince Norodom Sihanouk ruled Cambodia.

Starving Spirits

Phnom Sruoch district, Kompong Speu province –

Villagers fear that the spirits residing at the Preah Damboukbon pagoda are enraged.

Their anger has many roots. The temple has been neglected. Wayward monks have become increasingly unruly and undisciplined. Rumors of drug use and prostitution at the pagoda have multiplied. The faithful have fled.

Novice monk Po Peth participates in a Pchum Ben ceremony at Wat Preah Damboukbon in Kompong Speu province’s Phnom Sruoch district on Tuesday. (Hannah Hawkins/The Cambodia Daily)

“We are still alive and we became angry,” villager Sreng Mom said this week. “How about the spirits of our ancestors? They are also angry.”

Revealing Cambodia’s secret Khmer Rouge resistance

The prevailing image of Cambodians under the Khmer Rouge is one of dignified suffering and passivity. But many resisted the regime in ways often overlooked by historians

“Sometimes, I miss the Khmer Rouge days,” says Youk Chhang, cradling a photograph of a field specked with trees and flowers in his hands. “That is where I lived during those times. People died there. My family died there. But in the mornings, when I went to work, I saw the flowers blossom, and I was so happy. It gave you hope. It meant you didn’t give in to the Khmer Rouge.”

Forced pregnancy [during the Khmer Rouge Regime]

One of the few forced-marriage photographs from the Khmer Rouge period shows the head of S-24 prison Nun Huy, aka Huy Sre (left), marrying Prok Khoeun, aka Prak Samuth, a prison official. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Forced pregnancy: crime but no punishment?

When she was six months pregnant, Srey Neang* pressed the palm of her hand to her navel and felt her unborn child stop moving. It was 1976 and she had been struck down with malaria. Three months later, she gave birth, but her daughter had already died.

Forced to marry in 1975 – at the dawn of the Khmer Rouge’s brutal regime – Neang is a victim of a crime that may never be investigated or tried before the Khmer Rouge tribunal: forced pregnancy.

Although the tribunal is currently hearing victim and expert-witness testimony on the crime of forced marriage – which is in itself a milestone, say legal advocates – it decided earlier this year that it would not investigate forced pregnancy as a distinct crime.

Those representing the victims were disappointed, seeing it as a missed opportunity to probe the often inextricably linked crime of forced pregnancy. That decision also means forced pregnancy is a crime no international criminal tribunal has yet prosecuted.

‘Serve Angkar’